Paddling down the Zambezi River, which flows all the way to the Indian Ocean dividing Zambia on one side from Zimbabwe on the other, through the steeply sided black granite walls of Kariba gorge and into the wide flood planes with islands of towering reeds and grasses was yet another way to experience Africa from a different perspective. Thoughts of the early European explorers who pushed up through this same river were on the mind as we looked across at our little expedition of three canoes carrying our guides, provisions and equipment. With the close company of hundreds of hippos that lined our route and crocodiles that stared menacingly with cold black eyes from the banks we were given some excitement to the otherwise tranquil drift downstream. Indeed the pace picked up considerably when, to our surprise and momentary panic, we found ourselves being pursued with determination by a young bull hippo. Our guides revealed their wealth of knowledge about the vibrant ecosystem that the river gives lives to. Black and white fish eagles circled gracefully above and brightly coloured turquoise bee-eaters darted back and forth skimming across the surface of the dark brown river. With great resourcefulness our local guides also cooked us scrumptious meals in the evening as the sunset and unraveled the mysteries of the immense African starlit night sky. After a few enjoyable days and nights we were back on land close to Chirindu, which was once an inland outpost of the Arabic slavers that used the river for the despotic trade and from there we returned to collect our Land Cruiser and crossed the border into Zambia (which proved unexpectedly eventful, as to secure passage the day required some entertainingly tense negotiations with Interpol, customs officials, insurance agents and even a bank manager).

Passing through Lusaka, the capital of Zambia, our first major city of the trip since leaving Cape Town, was a shock to the senses and we did not linger too long. Despite the obvious poverty and hectic hustle and bustle expected of an African capital city the abundance of shopping malls and new cars were evidence that some were prospering from Zambia’s 4% growth rate. The juxtaposition of these “islands of wealth” surrounded by the poverty is an uncomfortable and yet all to real aspect of life out here but this glaring inequality is almost exclusive to the cities. As we travel into “East Africa” the population density increases noticeably especially along the road networks.   Long gone are the Namibian days when we could travel a full day and see no other soul. Cars and trucks are still relatively few but locals walking on foot between villages with teetering bundles of goods balanced on their heads or on bicycles laden with all sorts, including goats (dead or alive) are omnipresent. With the prospect of needing to be in Nairobi (still thousands of kms north east) by early May we decided that we’d travel through southern Zambia along the newly surfaced “Great East” trunk road (funded by the EU).   Interestingly, as was the case in the Congo, it’s no longer typically the US or EU influence you see in the funding of the infrastructure development projects but the Chinese.   Hydroelectric, road, rural development projects all being built and funded so as to get access and influence over the mineral and mining rights. Indeed later in Lilongwe the capital of Malawi, the direct influence is physically apparent with the huge new Chinese Embassy being built directly next to the Presidential Palace and government compound on the outskirts of the city. You definitely have a feeling that in the domain of strategic geo-politics the Chinese in South/Central Africa are out manoeuvring the West.

After thousands of kms of rough tracks it was with a sense of relaxed relief that we took the Great East Road across to South East Zambia and turned off up to the wildlife rich South Laungwe National Park where we camped for a few nights on the banks of the river at the edge of this wilderness that stretches for hundreds of kilometres. Having failed to find the big cats, with the exception of the ghostly leopard in Botswana, on any of our other self-drive safari expeditions we thought we’d give it one last chance here, having heard the bush was not so thick and terrain more varied, raising both our chances and hopes.

Even for the best guides it’s still a game of luck with what wildlife you get to see and experience in these vast areas especially when the animals are so spread out after the end of the rains. You can certainly increase your chances by knowing what to look or listen out for, the frenzied squawking of the Franklin birds for example is the early warning alarm for many animals that danger is close by and present.   So armed with our ever increasing. yet still limited knowledge of the bush, as the sun rose, we went in search of the elusive big cats and this time luck also accompanied us.

After just an hour of exploring a few tracks on the edge of the park a few small nervous herds of antelope and zebra looked anxiously over the tall grass and amongst the umbrella thorn trees. Slowing the Land Cruiser to a rumbling crawl our eyes scanned anxiously into the bush and just as we came to a stop at a small stream a lioness sauntered out and across the track, looking directly at us with apparent indifference.   With excitement we watched as she lazily drank from the stream and with the windows open, so not to be surprised, kept an eye watchful eye out for others in the pride that maybe around and indeed spotted another lioness lying motionless except for her twitching tail in the grass a little way off. After sometime watching these majestic animals laze around and having been joined in our find by another safari vehicle we moved on.   Several hours later we retuned close to the spot in the hope of seeing our lionesses again and Eric spotted the circling of several vultures a short distance away, a tell tale sign of a carcass nearby and the reason for the lions continued presence in the area. We edged the truck deeper into the thickening bush with the long thorns of the acacias screeching loudly against its metal sides and the dense undergrowth crunched and snapped under our tires. As we drew up within meters of where the huge scavenger birds greedily were eyeing we saw the two lionesses under a thick bush gnawing the carcass of a large zebra that they must have just killed earlier that night. They looked up at us through the shadows, seemingly unconcerned by our presence, with mouths stained a deep blood red and the belly of the zebra hollowed out. Despite the drama the scene was quiet and serene, it seemed like the ladies had had their fill. Returning later in the evening, as the sunset, to the same spot the quite of the morning was shattered by the deep guttural growl of a male lion, which reverberated through the air all around. Before our eyes, in the failing light, two massive male lions tore possessively into the carcass, powerful jaws crushing bone, with six smaller male and females trying to get their share, ripping at what remained of the flesh in the hind quarters and neck. It was mesmerising to watch and feel this raw, savage and dramatic display of nature unfold.

More than we could have asked for we also came across an increasingly rare pack of African wild dogs and from a distance watched as a huge congregation of elephants gather at the river and in remarkable display of communal affection bath and play together before each family broke off on their separate ways to return to the bush as the sun set. South Luangwa gave us the African wildlife experience we had been in search of on our self-safaris and also allowed us a sense of self-accomplishment and reward for our perseverance! With that we set off to cross the border into Malawi.